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Cabinetry

Come the Apocalypse, this hand held auger bit drill (aka “brace”) will do the
same work for humanity all hand powered tools have done for centuries.

This one, of course, is not exactly your grandfathers brace and bit since
the bit is the innovative modern adjustable version introduced sometime
in the second half of the 20th Century.

Any size hole up to 3 inches with just a turn of the adjustment screw! Prior
to that most carpenters carried an entire cloth tool roll filled with every size
needed on the job to make holes from 1/4 inch up to a gargantuan 1 1/4 inch diameter.

For larger holes an additional tool roll of large hole augers would need to find
space in the toolbox as well.

I used this particular combination brace and bit all through the late 1970’s through
the middle 1990’s- mostly to bore knob and lock holes in the solid fir doors commonly
available at the time.

Before battery operated drills with individually sized hole saws the trusty brace and bit
was the go-to hole making tool of the day.

Of course, in the 21st century most doors come from the factory with knob and lock holes
pre-drilled so even the need to cut holes onsite is uncommon.

Nevertheless, as recently as a few weeks ago I needed to make a special retro sized hole
and none of the many hole saws or spade bits in my tool box could quite do the job.

So maybe the day of the classic brace and bit is not yet gone. They are still for sale
(new!) online. Go figure.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-5044-Bit-Brace-10In/dp/B0001IW8N8

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So to install a tipout sponge tray is not a difficult job with a new kitchen cabinet.

Plenty of space to swing tools around and attach screws without counter tops and sinks
in place to block access to screws and hardware.

Howsomeever, retrofit a tipout sponge tray in an existing cabinet and there is a
completely different job with completely different access and space requirements.

In spite of all the modern new ratchet gizmos and power drill attachments only one tool
still really works in that cramped crowded workspace- the good ole fashioned handheld
offset screwdriver.

Yes, I bought a set back in the good ole days and every so often, they still come in handy!

A thing of beauty and a joy for ever, get yours today! You never know when you will need one!

Walmart still sells them! CLICK LINK

ViviLnk

ViviLnk

A DIY no frill cabinet shelf pull out.

Back in the good ole days before fancy wire baskets and dovetail joint trays,
plywood was the material of choice to make cabinet pull out shelves.

Yup! This was some kind of fancy!

With ordinary plywood a 31 inch wide shelf can easily support any number
of heavy pots and pans.

Hardly gets anymore straightforward than this.

3/4 inch plywood shelf cut to size attached with two side drawer glides and a front
edge of clear pine.

The visible surface can be covered with vinyl shelf liner, 1/8 inch melamine masonite, FRP,
or even Formica.

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ViviLnk

Melamine masonite liner.

The video:

Final update of all updates:

ViviLnk

ViviLnk

Update: My client finished the stain and varnish work in between his trips
abroad and work assignments at his job. The net result-not too bad! Ready for
the book collection!

Shelf2a

Shelf1a

ShelfText

ViviLnk

ViviLnk

Custom dimension birch plywood shelf units (8 feet tall) with poplar trim
delivered “flat pack” and assembled on site.

IMAG0001

A little more elaborate than usual, full floor to ceiling Hungarian Cleat Book Shelves.

With the proper spacing an entire library can fit on a few walls and still leave the room
with a light and airy feel unencumbered with heavy boxy cabinet style bookshelves.

Designed by a Hungarian Physicist, this cleat style is a little finicky for the vagaries
of a modern sheetrock wall. In this case all worked out well in the end.

CurioShelf2

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Plate rails or knickknack/ bric a brac shelves do not
need to be fancy or elaborate to display favorite
curios. A plain board held in place with hidden
pins can do the job just as well as the more
complicated variety of overhead display shelf.

Drill matching holes in the edge of a 3/4 or 4/4 board and
a suitable wall location and insert (steel) dowels to hold
everything in place!

(Now you know why it is important to be able to cut steel pins
to size! See LINK HERE)

A previous video (CLICK LINK HERE) demonstrated how any saw with a depth of cut adjustment – handheld circular saw, table saw or radial arm saw — can be used to cut the ever popular quick and strong half lap joint in the field or in the shop.

This video demonstrates a more refined two step process to quickly and precisely cut a large number of half lap joints with a pre-made plywood guide or jig for use with a table saw.

Assembled in just a few minutes from scrap lumber the jig can be used immediately and saved for future projects which would include both lap joints and tenon sections for mortise and tenon joints.

To see the entire archive of Blog Video Posts CLICK THIS LINK